Mo Ran Gak is nominally a barbecue restaurant, but the thin, blushing slivers of thoroughly marbled brisket and buttery slabs of short rib are just a precursor for the true showstopper: bowls of the finest naengmyeon available anywhere.

Morangak is the archetypal Korean barbecue; it's got booths and tables each equipped with a stainless steel grill and burners, a huge, noisy exhaust hood over each grill, and an automated machine near the entrance that dispenses something purporting to be coffee.